My ever evolving food & drink guide to Paris

It thrills me to give Paris tips. Enjoy!

Eating + Drinking in Paris

I do suggest planning ahead for your dinners and making a reservation. Also, check the hours of operation on Instagram as websites aren’t frequently updated. Sunday, Monday and Tuesday are always worth checking to see if the restaurant is open. I’ve included the Instagram links for each restaurant. A general rule of thumb for Paris dining is to plan on eating lunch at 1pm and dinner at 8pm. All sections below are in order by “arrondissement” (which means district in english). I offer customized itineraries that you can email me about at prepforparis@gmail.com.

Options for a French dinner

Eiffel Tower and purple flowers from the Champ De Mars by Crissa Youngblood
© Crissa Youngblood Photography

VERJUS – Top pick for date night. Make sure to enjoy the basement wine bar, VERJUS BAR À VINS, before or after your cozy dinner. Closed weekends.
52, rue de Richelieu, 75001 [website] €€€

LE COMPTOIR DE LA GASTRONOMIE – In my opinion, the best “foie gras” in town. Closed Sundays.
34 rue Montmartre, 75001 [website]

CANARD ET CHAMPAGNE – This spot only serves duck (in a variety of forms) and Champagne. Don’t underestimate the duck burger. Open every day, including Sundays.
57 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 [website]

CHEZ JANOU – This is a cozy neighborhood bistro located in my favorite area of Paris (“Le Marais”). You can go here for typical French fare. Make sure to order the chocolate soufflé, they’ll bring out a large bowl and let you scoop it onto your plate until you’re full! FYI No English menus here so Google translate app for the win! Open every day, including Sundays.
2 rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 [website]

CAFÉ DES MUSÉES – Two great reasons to go with this French bistro: #1 Location (in the Marais and a few steps away from the beautiful square, PLACE DES VOSGES) and #2 Friendly staff for English-speakers. Not to mention, the food! You can expect your French staples and other very delicious options. Youngblood stamp of approval for sure! Open every day, including Sundays.
49 Rue de Turenne, 75003 [website]

BREIZH CAFE – Some of the best and most innovative crepes (made with a buckwheat batter) in the world can be found at Breizh Café. You can go for breakfast, lunch, mid-shopping snack, or dinner. Open every day, including Sundays. [website]
109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
1 rue de l’Odéon, 75006 

JOSEPHINE CHEZ DUMONET – A 112-year-old bistro in the 6th arrondissement that’s known for its brilliant and bountiful execution of French classics. Best beef bourguignon in town! Must call and make reservations in advance. Closed weekends.
117 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006  [website]

LE RELAIS DE L’ENTRECOTE – This iconic restaurant has only 3 things on the menu: steak, fries, and an unforgettable sauce. They do not accept reservations, you just line up outside but the line moves quickly. Open every day, including Sundays.
20 Rue Saint-Benoît, 75006 [website] + numerous others around Paris (same experience at each one)

LES ANTIQUAIRES – Ry and I love going here. It’s a charming and warm neighborhood bistro with a great menu and daily specials. Open every day, including Sundays.
13 Rue du Bac, 75007 [website]

A nice meal can be enjoyed at LES COCOTTES and CAFÉ CONSTANT. Chef Christian Constant is the a famous chef here and owns three restaurants on the same block. You can’t go wrong with any of them. Open every day, including Sundays.
135 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 [website] €€€ + 139 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 [website]

A LA CLOCHE D’OR – Looking for all the French staples (i.e. escargot, onion soup, smoking hot camembert, beef tartare, etc)? Then look no further! By the way, this is a great neighborhood to be in for pre-dinner or post-dinner drinks. Closed Sundays.
3 rue Mansart, 75009 

LE BISTROT PAUL BERT – This beloved bistro is legendary in Paris. You can go here for traditional French comfort food aka “steak frites”. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
18 rue Paul Bert, 75011 [website]

LE CLOWN BAR – Very popular dinner spot! A delicious option for shareable plates + natural wines. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
114 rue Amelot, 75011 [website]

VANTRE – I came for their marble tables + sage butter gnocchi but fell in love with their wine. In fact, one of the best wine lists in the city! Closed weekends.
19 rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 75011 [website] *closed Saturday and Sunday

AU PASSAGE – Go with a small group and order as much of the menu as you can to share. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
1bis Passage Saint-Sébastien, 75011 [website] €€

ASTIER – €45 for entrée + plat + CHEESE + dessert. Important to note: NOT JUST ANY CHEESE! It is the most massive all-you-can-eat cheese board making all your (well at least mine) dreams come true. Open every day, including Sundays.
44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 [website] €€

Read more about the very best classic French bistros from my foodie-bestie, Julie, on her blog here.

Less France-y options

HERO – Incredible fried chicken + sides + amazing cocktails. I love the style of the interior as well. This is one of our favorite places to take visitors in town. Open every day, including Sundays. 
289 rue Saint Denis, 75002

GRAZIE – You will say “grazie” for the cocktails + pizza. Advice: shop around the neighborhood before your Italian dinner. Open every day, including Sundays.
91 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 [website]

LE MARY CELESTE  – A hot address in town. My top pick for shareable small plates + cocktails. Their specialty is oysters. Don’t miss out on the deviled eggs. Open every day, including Sundays.
1, rue Commines, 75003 [website]

FREDDY’S – Located in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood. You will find delicious small plates and a fun atmosphere. All staff speaks English. Open every day, including Sundays.
54 rue de Seine, 75006

L’AVANT-COMPTOIR – This is a standing-room only dining experience. It’s unique as you order numerous small plates from the pictures of the tapas on the ceiling. I have made great memories here. You won’t believe the size of the salted butter on the counters because #wheninfrance. Open every day, including Sundays.
3, Carrefour de l’Odeon, 75006 

MARZO – The interior is adorable and it’s set up where you can see the pizza being made. It’s a tough tie between Grazie and Marzo when we decide to go out for pizza. Perhaps you can choose based off of the location that is best for your schedule. Open every day, including Sundays.
5 Rue Paul-Louis Courier, 75007 [website]

PINK MAMMA – You may not think of Italian food when you come to Paris but it’s nice to have a balance to the french meals. Plus, you can expect the staff to be Italians (as we are practically neighbors). With Pink Mamma, I could go for the name alone but this a very popular and delicious trattoria. *No reservations so arrive early (opens at 7pm) for a chance to be seated upon the first seating. When the doors open you will be welcomed with a big “BUONO SERA!” as if you’re in Italia – which is so fun. Open every day, including Sundays.
20bis rue de Douai, 75009 [website]

PINK FLAMINGO – They give you a pink balloon and you wait for your pizza to be delivered right to you. Important to note: not your standard Italian pizza flavors!
Now with four locations in Paris, in the 3rd, 10th, 12th and 18th. My personal favorite is to order at the one in the 10th and hang by the Canal St. Martin waiting for your pizza. Open every day, including Sundays.
67 Rue Bichat, 75010 [website]

MARTIN – Food is listed on a big chalkboard that they carry around. I suggest you go with a small group and order as much of the menu as you can to share. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
24 Boulevard du Temple, 75011 [website]

LE DAUPHIN – A menu full of modern French [delicious] tapas and a great wine list! Closed Sundays and Mondays.
131 Avenue Parmentier, 75011

DERSOU – A refreshing break from French restaurants. Dersou is a crowd favorite that gets raving reviews all thanks to the dynamic duo of the expert barman + Japanese chef. Reservations absolutely mandatory. Closed on Mondays.
21 rue Saint Nicolas, 75012 [website]

Dinner with a view

GEORGES – Terrace located on top of the Pompidou Museum overlooking the city. Closed on Tuesdays. 
Palais Beaubourg, Place Georges Pompidou, 75004 [website] €€€€

CAFÉ DE LA PAIX – Brasserie with a terrace view of the Palais Opéra. Recommended for sunset hour. Open every day, including Sundays.
5 Place de l’Opéra, 75009 [website] €€€€

MONSIEUR BLEU – Romantic terrace with an *incredible* view of the Eiffel Tower. Reservations a must for dinner but you can come for strictly drinks with a view. Open every day, including Sundays.
20 Avenue de New York, 75116 [website] €€

Options to save those euro euro bills y’all

L’AS DU FALAFEL – Top pick for a super cheap lunch. Get this scrumptious falafel sandwich to-go and roam the Marais neighborhood. They will ask if you want the spicy sauce… say yes! Closed Saturdays.
rue de Rosiers, 75004

LE CAFÉ MOUFFETARD – An easy lunch with the best “croque monsieur” in town. Pro tip: Go by Marché Maubert (open on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday) first and then walk to Le Café Mouffetard. Closed Mondays.
 116 Rue Mouffetard, 75005

COSI – Ry and I love picking up tasty sandwiches (they also serve soup & salads) and taking them to eat at LUXEMBOURG GARDENS. However, you can eat at the shop if would like. Open every day, including Sundays.
54 Rue de Seine, 75006

Crêpes are another cheap meal option. I suggest ordering one savory *and* one sweet every time!

Another reference to my foodie-bestie, Julie, with her post on seven options under $20.

Brunch is always a good idea

ELLSWORTH – Top pick for a nice brunch. Known for their fried chicken. Go for a stroll in the lovely Palais-Royal afterwards. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
34 rue de Richelieu, 75001 [website]

BIGLOVE – It’s like walking into an Italian caffé in the 1950s. Pink Mamma (mentioned above) is part of the same restaurant group called BIG MAMMA GROUP that is widely popular here with seven Italian trattorias. BigLove is known to be the best one for brunch. Open every day, including Sundays.
30 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 [website]

RALPH’S – Located in the Ralph Lauren mansion and is the perfect spot to impress your significant other with a special brunch in their courtyard. Sometimes they play old jazz and it’s very romantic. Open every day, including Sundays.
173 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 [website] €€€

ZIA – Ryan and I’s absolute favorite! A brunch spot to appreciate for the location (close to the Eiffel Tower), the food, and the coffee. Ryan’s order: the savory Dutch baby pancakes. Crissa’s order: the breakfast burrito. Tell Justin and Lindsey (the owners) that we say hi! Closed Mondays.
22 Avenue de Tourville, 75007 [website]

HOLYBELLY 5 – A casual brunch spot with great coffee and breakfast/brunch served until 5pm! That’s my kind of place! Don’t miss out on the pancakes with bourbon butter, bacon and two fried eggs on top. *There is usually a line so I suggest you show up right at opening time of 9am. Open every day, including Sundays.
5 rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 [website]

CAFÉ OBERKAMPF + CAFÉ MÉRICOURT – Two very popular coffee (order their flat white) and brunch spots. Same ownership. Open every day, including Sundays.
3 rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011 [website] + 22 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011 [website]

MOKONUTS – Must have reservation. Don’t miss out on their cookie selection! You will see what I mean. Closed weekends.

Enjoying the sunshine

TREIZE BAKERY PARIS – The cutest café (and smoke free) for living up the terrace life — which is the best life. You’re getting a feel for how we spend a lot of our time in Paris : ) Then you can walk across the street and continue the relaxation at LUXEMBOURG GARDENSOpen every day, including Sundays.
5 Rue de Médicis, 75006 [website]

woman reading in luxembourg gardens in autumn
© Crissa Youngblood Photography

Drinks

MAISON MAISON – This spot is directly along the river and has such fun summer vibes! Go enjoy some bubbly!
16 Quai du Louvre, 75001

LE GARDE-ROBE – Looking for natural wine? Go here.
41 rue de l’arbre sec, 75001

BAR HEMINGWAY  – I suggest you go for drinks and don’t bother with the food. It’s trés chic and the perfect place to start a night in Paris!
15 Place Vendôme, 75001 [website]

LOCKWOOD – Coffee by day and cocktail bar by night.
73 rue d’Aboukir, 75002 [website]

BISOU – Another spot that I will go for the name alone. This is a great cocktail bar.
15 Boulevard du Temple, 75003

MARCELLO – What a gem this spot is. Escape the hustle and bustle of the city in seconds by going here for wine, tea, or a morning cup of coffee.
8 Rue Mabillon, 75006

ROSA BONHEUR SUR SEINE – This is a boat along the Seine next to the Eiffel Tower. It doesn’t get much more picturesque than that. For the ultimate treat, get to Rosa Bonheur sur Seine in time for sunset to watch the dreamy Parisian cotton candy skies! Promise me you will hang along the Seine at some point of your Paris vacay. It’s a must!
Port des Invalides, Quai d’Orsay, 75007 [website]

CHEZ PRUNE – Where you can find the locals. I suggest it for apéro hour over a shared bottle of wine plus charcuterie & cheese board.
36 Rue Beaurepaire, 75010

LE COMPTOIR GÉNÉRAL – Important: it’s hidden near Canal St. Martin! Look up online how to get in there first. It’s an unexpected bar kind of fantasy world… hard to describe but worth it to check out for drinks.
80 Quai de Jemmapes, 75010 [website]

SEPTIME LA CAVE – a very tiny wine shop and bar that is the little sister to the the very popular restaurant, SEPTIME.
3 Rue Basfroi, 75011

BUVETTE – I adore this cozy French restaurant near Pigalle. Perfect for apéro or dinner as well. Buvette is understandably confused with LA BUVETTE which is another great option for “vin”. You must walk up rue des Martyrs before you go to Buvette. Could it be the most perfect street in Paris? I think so! 
28 Rue Henry Monnier, 75009 [website] (Buvette)
67 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 (La Buvette)

LE PERCHOIR – Rooftop bar with an amazing view of Paris while you enjoy your cocktail. The bar opens around 8pm but there is always a line to get in so arrive early!
14 rue Crespin du Gast, 75011

LE BARON ROUGE – This is a bustling spot to get oysters, a charcuterie board and cheap wine.
1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012 [website]

Sip Champagne in front of the Eiffel Tower at HÔTEL RAPHAEL. The rooftop terrace is gorgeous with roses all around you. Obviously this experience is best in spring and summer. You must make a reservation in advance!
17 Avenue Kléber, 75116 [website]

I love a good little coffee shop to tuck away in…

BOOT CAFÉ – It’s the smallest coffee shop in Paris hidden on a side street in the Marais, many don’t realize that Boot Café is there because the sign outside still reads, “Cordonnerie” (which means shoe cobbler). I suggest you take your coffee to-go and head to the shop, Merci.
19 rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003

MERCI – I go to admire the iconic Merci car and pop into the shop. It’s an expensive store but still worth it to peruse for the unique trifecta of part café, coffee/tea room and shop.
111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 [website]

The iconic Merci car is painted pink in Paris, France
© Crissa Youngblood Photography

OB-LA-DI – Cute lil’ coffee shop in the Marais. Bonus feature: fabulously tiled floors for that perfect coffee insta.
54 rue de Saintonge, 75003

SHAKESPEARE & COMPANY CAFE – This cafe gets lots traffic from the bookstore clients next door (that you must check out) and visitors checking out Notre Dame across the street.
37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 [website]

KB CAFÉ or CAFÉ MARLETTE – If you are wanting to explore Montmartre, then either of these coffee shops are for you. They are practically across the street from each other. Pro tip: Don’t miss the adorable street, rue des Martyrs.
53 Avenue Trudaine, 75009 [website]

TEN BELLES – Delicious coffee and beautiful French breads.
10 rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010 [website]

LA FONTAINE DE BELLEVILLE – Go here on a Saturday at 4:30pm for (free) Jazz music.  Coffee is available around the clock, as are craft beers, and natural wines.
31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 75010

O COFFEESHOP – It’s a surf-inspired coffee shop, owned by an Aussie and a Frenchie, and it’s an outlier in our neighborhood. This is the perfect coffee shop to fuel up before your 10:30am PARIS DAY BIKE TOUR with Fat Tire Tours! Our bike office is just a 10 minute walk from the coffee shop.
23 rue de Lourmel, 75015

Paris is for sweet adventures

The best macarons can be found at LADURÉE (traditional) and PIERRE HERMÉ (more experimental).

The best ice cream/gelato can be found at BERTHILLON, AMARINO’S, POZZETTO, GROM, and GLACE BACHIR.

I also suggest you check out the meringues at AUX MERVEILLLLEUX DE FRED and cream puffs at POPELINI.

Or you can pop into BONTEMPS TEA ROOM for a sweet treat. It’s €15 for tea and a cake or four sablés.

The best markets in town

LES ENFANT DU MARCHÉ – I hope you can make your way to this market. It includes so many vendors for a delicious lunch. Keep your eye out at the market for the sandwich man with a lot of personality (it’s called Chez Alain Miam Miam). Don’t leave without purchasing some pretty flowers from the market : )
39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003

MARCHÉ SAXE-BRETEUIL – Ryan and I’s favorite market. This is part of our Saturday walk, we walk through the market on our way to Luxembourg Gardens. The open-air market is only open Thursday and Saturday from 7am – 1pm. My go-to stand for purchasing a nice warm scarf is here… I need to snap a picture to help you find him. I will do that next time : )
Avenue de Saxe, 75007

BASTILLE MARKET (also known as Richard Lenoir Market) – A perfectly Parisian open-air food market open on Thursdays and Sundays from 7am – 2:30pm. This is the place to be on Sundays. Pro tip: You can grab some coffee at TEN BELLES BREAD on your way to the bustling market.
8 Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 75011

MARCHÉ DE LA PORTE VANVES – I suggest going on Saturday morning (opens at 7am)  to find that hidden something that you will hopefully treasure forever!
14 Avenue Georges Lafenestre, 75014

The most perfect Paris peonies at the Bastille Market
© Crissa Youngblood Photography

MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN – I definitely moved to Paris and became a flea market junkie. I suggest you have your Google map take you to rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen and begin your flea market adventure there. When you are ready for lunch, go to UNE AFFAIRE DE FAMILLE. This is an adorable mother and daughter owned restaurant that is the perfect break until you continue the treasure hunting. You can read more tips on tackling this fabulous market here.
132-140 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen

You must make time for a picnic!

My favorite picnic locations and spots to read a book lying on the grass: LUXEMBOURG GARDEN, QUAI DE LA SEINE, BUTTES CHAUMONT, SQUARE DU VERT-GALANT and TUILERIES GARDEN. Pro tip: You can get sandwiches to go from CARETTE to enjoy at Tuileries or PLACE DES VOSGES.
*If you are coming in April, I wrote an article for finding the cherry blossoms that you can read here.

lady sitting at tuileries garden in paris, france
© Crissa Youngblood Photography

And finally…

The best bakery in Paris is DU PAIN ET DES IDÉES (located on the right bank and only open Monday – Friday). My personal favorite boulangerie (that I happen to share with Ina Garten) is PÔILANE. Don’t miss CIRCUS BAKERY (located on the left bank at 63 rue Galande, 75005) for the most-to-die-for cinnamon buns

I included additional dreamy bakeries on the map below.

croissants in paris at a boulangerie
© Crissa Youngblood Photography

I made a map of all the places listed above. You can download this map offline so that you can access it when you are bopping around in Paris and out of wifi.

Are you wondering what to pack?

  • WHAT TO PACK IN YOUR SUITCASE FOR A TRIP TO PARIS

…Where to shop?

…Where to stay? 

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5 thoughts on “My ever evolving food & drink guide to Paris

  1. What’s the best day of the week for a Versailles Tour? My wife and I will be there Tuesday April 10-Friday April 20!

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  2. This is absolutely FANTASTIC! I’ve made my own fun little (ok, it’s HUGE :D) map of recommendations for Paris and included many of these! Can you recommend a tea shop to go where you could buy a tea cup from them as a souvenir?

    Like

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